Monday, November 30, 2009

So How Does This Work, Anyway?


ANTIGUA, Guatemala--Hundreds of people come to Antigua each month to study Spanish. Should you?

I'm biased--I've done this twice and I love it. It might or might not work for you. Obviously, there are plenty of other places to study, but I know only Antigua.

First thing to understand: You're not going to come here for one week and leave fluent, even if you took Spanish in high school. This can be a lot of work. Most people will study for a month or more, and will just end up kicking themselves that they aren't better and smarter than they are, and that they don't have more time. However, there are also people here for a week or two, just learning enough to survive before they launch themselves into a longer trip south. That's fine, too.

Most schools seem to work the same way. You are assigned a teacher and study together one-on-one, for four or more hours per weekday. The content of the classes depends on your level, which can be anywhere from absolute beginner to practically fluent. Studying involves grammar drills, but also a lot of conversation. (There's homework, too.)

You can live with a family, who will provide room, board and more Spanish practice. But you can also live in a hotel, a dorm-like guesthouse or your own apartment. (The last seems to be a common choice among longer-term visitors, or those who are here with spouses and family.) Some people complain that the meals the families serve are stingy--tortillas, beans and maybe some chicken. I guess that happens with some schools, which pay the families miserably. But I have been very lucky. Both times here I have lived with great families that served excellent food. Yes, I have lost appreciable weight, not because I'm being starved, but rather because I'm eating a portion-controlled fruit-and-veggie heavy diet.

The studying style here is called immersion, but just about everyone realizes that true immersion is difficult in Antigua. There are too many other students, not to mention tourists. I've also concluded that if you just study and laze around, you're not forced to use other language muscles, the way you would be if you worked or hung out with local friends. Working in a situation like mine--volunteers at the project generally speak together in English--is not going to improve your adult Spanish vocabulary, either. (Now, your ability to ask a 9-year-old whether she needs help with a jigsaw puzzle--that's going to skyrocket!)

You can pay once a week, in advance. Prices seem ridiculously cheap by North American standards, but they do vary. Spot-checking a few reputable schools gives me prices for room, board and 20 hours of class varying from $170 to $310 per week. If you don't like a house, it's cool to ask to switch. If a school doesn't click with you, you can switch that, too. The guidebooks all say you can just drift into town, visit a couple schools, and pick one. I've never done it that way--I've followed the recommendations of my U.S. Spanish teacher. It has worked for me.

Most students seem to study four hours a day, 8am to noon. That means their afternoons are free for whatever--relaxing, studying, writing, working. Others study for six or seven hours--that leaves almost no brain cells available for other things. (An 8am class start means you are up at 6am, but that's easy in Antigua, because church bells, fireworks and even the occasional rooster seem to observe that schedule.)

Life in a family homestay may be more regimented than you are used to. Meals are at set hours. You develop routines on study times and the like. You're not part of the family, but they do keep an eye on what you're doing (especially with younger students.)

If you are considering this and have specific questions, feel free to ask!

And if you're wondering, the photo above is the devil. He's on display in one Antigua square this week. Next week, he's going to be burned in a much-anticipated ceremony/party. No, I don't understand it either, yet!

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